Tool to tighten through-hull fittings?

[nigelmercier]

... have just made myself a set of "seacock spanners" by cutting slots into the sides of old unwanted sockets...

I made one of these some time ago using an angle grinder, it was very rough

Before fitting my new through-hulls I'd like to make a proper set. I don't have a milling machine, so any suggestions for cutting neat slots into the sides of chrome vanadium sockets?

 

[prv]

I just used a hacksaw and a file. How neat do you need for a tool you'll probably only use once, to fit something that will be underwater?

Pete

 

[RichardS]

I made one of these some time ago using an angle grinder, it was very rough

Before fitting my new through-hulls I'd like to make a proper set. I don't have a milling machine, so any suggestions for cutting neat slots into the sides of chrome vanadium sockets?

Lidl Angle Grinder £20 this week!

Richard

 

[VicMallows]

I must be missing something here. I have never needed a special tool to do-up or undo a seacock .... or a skin fitting if that is what is meant ??

 

[prv]

I must be missing something here. I have never needed a special tool to do-up or undo a seacock .... or a skin fitting if that is what is meant ??

What's needed is something to prevent the skin fitting turning while you do up the nut on the inside. The best system I've seen had a lug joining the tube and the flange, which fitted into a matching slot filed in the edge of the hole in the GRP, thus preventing the fitting ever turning whether during initial fitting or subsequent work. But I've never seen this on any other fittings for sale; usually there's a pair of protrusions inside the bore of the tube instead. You can hold these with a chisel or other tool jammed into position, but a socket with slots in is a more elegant solution. You can either have someone hold it from outside, or use the extension bar from your socket set and do the whole job yourself from inside the boat.

Pete

 

[VicMallows]

You can hold these with a chisel or other tool jammed into position, but a socket with slots in is a more elegant solution.

Yes! I've simply never found the need for the elegant solution Now, if I was in the business of installing hundreds of the things...........................

(I thought the blip on the flange to locate in hull was normal .... but it is a long time since I actually bought a through hull).

 

[superheat6k]

I have just replaced two 1 1/2" seacocks with Forespar Marelon, the Forespar instructions required someone outside the boat to hold the skin fitting still. I sharpened off a bit of broom handle to fit the hole and engage the holding lugs, then cut this off to just fit between the ground on a piece of waste wood and the underside of the boat, then from the inside I used a stout screwdriver through the new seacock to hold the skin fitting still by wedging the screwdriver into the gap between the handle and the lugs, whilst I tightened the seacock down, all from the inside and one person only.

I have a large old fashioned F style adjustable to undo stubborn nuts. I mange to get it to reach into most places.

 

[nigelmercier]

I just used a hacksaw and a file. How neat do you need for a tool you'll probably only use once, to fit something that will be underwater?

My first attempt mangled the through-hull somewhat, but it didn't matter as it was coming off. I just want to make something that is a better fit.

 

[sailorman]

Twill take longer to make the tool than actually do the job

 

[nigelmercier]

Twill take longer to make the tool than actually do the job

I've got eleven ¾" and four 1½" to do. I want something that will manage that, plus use for maintenance later.

 

[bikedaft]

padded moles on the thread inside. where you are tightening up the nut.

 

[DinghyMan]

What size socket(s) and what size slot(s)?

 

[nigelmercier]

padded moles on the thread inside. where you are tightening up the nut.

Thanks, but I'm not looking for other methods, just how to modify a socket to make the tool.

Sockets will have an OD of ¾" a.nd 1½" to fit inside the fittings. From memory, slots need to be about 6mm deep and wide on the larger, less on smaller.

 

[Yngmar]

I simply bought the matching one for my new skin fittings at the time. IIRC it was only a few quid. But then I'm a plastic seacock convert ;-)

 

[oldbilbo]

I'm faced with the same issue. I tried a flat bar in aluminium ( handy scrap ) just wide enough to 'jam in' and engage the internal nubs, then clamped on a Molegrip.... but the ali swiftly distorted.

Then I took the through-hull fitting/tube down to my local eng suppliers, who found a short length of scrap steel pipe just the right diameter to fit inside the through-hull tube. Tomorrow I'll clamp this up, cut a couple of opposing short slots with the angle grinder to engage the nubs, and drill a pair of opposing holes near the other end for a screwdriver-tommybar.

Cost? Half-an-hour round trip and a couple of quid in the coffee swindle....

 

[Ukeluthier]

Many years ago, I quickly and cheaply fabricated a tool from a 2-foot length of 3/16" by 1-1/2" mild steel bar by grinding a taper on one end down to about 3/8" at the end and then making a right-angle bend in the bar just above the base of the taper. This simple tool will engage the internal nubs on any size thru-hull fittings commonly found on yachts of reasonable size.

I really don't see the point in modifying a set of chrome vanadium sockets. The slots cut in each will render them rust magnets anyway. So much for elegance.

 

[Len Ingalls]

http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthread.php?156809-Removing-thru-hull-with-no-tabs-for-step-wrench


http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/replacing_thruhulls

 

[Gin]

Would this be an alternative? Seems to be available at Plumb Centre outlets

Www.ridgid.eu/gb/en/internal-wrench

 

[macd]

I made one of these some time ago using an angle grinder, it was very rough

Before fitting my new through-hulls I'd like to make a proper set. I don't have a milling machine, so any suggestions for cutting neat slots into the sides of chrome vanadium sockets?

Having recommended precisely what prv suggests on a thread in the last few days, I obviousy agree with him. I've certainly found it easy enough to do a neat job (using a cutting disc rather than a grinding disc -- so two slots in each side of the socket, then clean out the sliver remaining between them. It takes about 10 minutes). I detest bodges like the Mole grip and flat file solutions, which don't work very well, anyway. I suspect prv's of like mind.

 

[x25dave]

OK !!! Confession time :ambivalence:
2 years ago, whilst lifted out for pre season antifoul, I decided to renew the skin fitting for my speed log, as I was fitting a new head, which needed a new paddle wheel, which did not fit the original skin fitting.
I slightly enlarged to hole to accept the slightly larger fitting, applied a little sealant, and shoved it through the hull. It stuck there whilst I went aboard, and applied the nut. This nut had little bumps on it, which perhaps should have been a warning, but I got the Molegrips on, and tightened it well down!!
The following season, at sea, I noticed that the speed log was stuck on 0 MPH, so I went below to remove the paddle wheel, free it off, and refit it. A simple procedure, done it before, piece of cake.
Having undone the cap, holding the paddle wheel in place, I pulled the wheel out, and was rather shocked to see the skin fitting sheer off!!!!!!! I was looking at a 35mm hole thru the bottom of the boat!!!!!!
I had bung nearby, with which I stopped the gushing water, and headed ashore. Dried out against a wall, whilst i located, and purchased a replacement skin fitting.
This time I did it up hand tight!!!!!!!
I had way over stressed the nylon fitting when I tightened the first one.
The only pressure, to speak of, on the fitting is inwards, it doesn't need to be wound down too tight. :encouragement: