Junya Watanabe Fall Winter 2024-25 Fashion Show

Junya Watanabe's Fall collection was a mesmerizing exploration of geometry in motion, where stiff, harness-like structures based on square pyramids and tors orbited around the designer's impeccable tailoring and dressmaking.

Building on his experimentation with prickly, jutting shapes from the previous season, Watanabe sought to express the beauty of the contrast between clothing and sculpture. The result was a collection that defied conventional notions of quiet luxury, with garments transformed into bold, visually arresting works of art.

A standout piece was the camel coat abstracted into a bulging cage of polyhedrons, revealing glimpses of the floral chintz dress underneath. While not practical in the traditional sense, these pieces captivated with their audacious design.

As the show progressed, the stiff, patent-leather pyramids gave way to outerwear and dresses adorned with prismic padding reminiscent of motocross gear. Soft Saturn-ring treatments, employing plain leather strips and heavily studded belts, added a futuristic edge to the collection.

The finale coat epitomized Watanabe's vision, with its imperious, jutting leather shoulders and grand, cape-like sleeves evoking a sense of otherworldly elegance. Meanwhile, slashed fetish biker jackets flared out into the shape of eggbeaters, showcasing Watanabe's mastery of innovative silhouettes.

Amidst all the structured designs, a puffer jacket resembling a cone of soft-serve licorice ice cream provided a playful and unexpected twist, offering a moment of lightness amidst the collection's avant-garde aesthetic.