Province: Leinster / County: Dublin
Howth is a secret treasure within county Dublin, and anyone who has visited knows this… yet many tourists do not know about it, and many locals have yet to visit. An outer suburb of Dublin that has been settled since prehistoric times, Howth is a historic fishing village and has served as a small trading port since at least the 14th century. It has even been featured in Irish mythology.
The Irish name for Howth is Binn Éadair, meaning Éadar’s Peak or Hill. In Old Irish, the name is recorded as Etar, which was first plundered by the Vikings around 819, but the name Howth is thought to be of Norse origin and translating to “head” in English. The eastern shores of Ireland were colonised by Norse Vikings during the Anglo-Norman invasion, and they built the settlement of Dyflinn as a strategic base between Scandinavia and the Mediterranean. Dyflinn was one of two settlements that eventually became Dublin!
Over the centuries, Howth has grown to become a busy and affluent suburb of Dublin, with an interesting mixture of suburban residential properties, wild hillsides, golf courses, cliff and coastal paths, a small quarry and a busy commercial fishing port. Howth is also home to one of the oldest occupied buildings in Ireland, Howth Castle… and that is where our explorations of Howth shall begin.
Howth Castle
Howth Castle was originally owned by the St. Lawrence family who came to Howth around 1180. Once granted the title of Lords of Howth, they set about building a castle on the grounds, however it was not the castle we see today. The first castle, built by the first lord, Almeric Lawrence, was made of timber and situated on Tower Hill, which overlooks Balscadden Bay. A few generations lived here until the family moved around 1235, where a deed records the fact that another castle had been built! This castle was built on the present-day site of Howth Castle; however, it is believed to have been constructed in wood. Stone came later through partial rebuilding, extensions and alterations made by later generations of the family. It was not until 1738 when the castle gained most of its modern-day appearance, however the oldest parts of Howth Castle that remain today are believed to have been built around the middle of the 1400s.
The castle is one of the longest continuously inhabited private residences not just in Ireland, but in all of Europe! Its estate covers much of Howth Head peninsula, including the famous Cliff Walk trails with stunning views over Dublin Bay, some woodlands, and the island of Ireland’s Eye as well. There are even golf, pitch and putt facilities, plus a former hotel, formal gardens, a pond, botanical walks and several small streams on the grounds. Despite the castle itself being a private residence, parts of the grounds are still open to visitors. While this may seem strange to some, permitting strangers onto the property so long as they do not trespass where entry is restricted is all due — apparently — to the legend of the open door…
Legend tells us there is a tradition at Howth Castle to keep the gates open at all times and that there be an extra place set at every meal. Both traditions have their origin from an incident involving the notorious pirate “Queen” Gráinne O’Malley in 1576. Gráinne attempted to pay a courtesy visit to Baron Howth, but upon her arrival she was turned away at the gates after being told that the family was having dinner and the gates would remain closed. Quite angry about this incident, she retaliated by abducting the grandson and heir to the family, and only released him later under the conditions that the castle gates were to always remain open for unexpected visitors, and that an extra place setting be made at every meal, just in case there is an arrival of unexpected visitors. To this day, that agreement is honoured by the Baron’s descendants as access to the grounds of the castle is always possible.
Aideen’s Grave
Upon the grounds of Howth Castle, you will also find the Deer Park Hotel and a golf course. If you pass them, you will discover the path that leads to Aideen’s Grave, an ancient dolmen that many local Dubliners (excluding some Howth residents, surely) have not even heard of! Aideen’s Grave is a beautiful collapsed monolithic portal tomb amongst the planted woods and rhododendron at Howth Demesne, the north side of Howth Head. A portal tomb, or a Poulnabrone dolmen, is Poll na Brón in Irish which translates as “Hole of the Sorrows,” and simply marks a burial place in a very distinctive way with large capstones elevated at an angle and held up by huge standing stones. There are over 180 portal tombs in Ireland, dating from as early as 4000–3000 BCE!
Local lore knew Aideen’s Grave as “Fionn MacCumhaill’s Quoit” — “quoit” meaning a dolmen, or cromlech, today called a portal tomb — however a 19th-century poet and antiquarian, Sir Samuel Ferguson, believed it to be the gravesite of the legendary Aideen, who died of grief when her husband, Oscar, grandson of Fionn, was slain in battle. This belief comes from the stories of myths of the Fianna, who were reputable hunter warriors known to travel around Ireland during their reign. Fionn MacCumhaill was said to be the greatest of the Fianna, and his tale — the Salmon of Knowledge — is quite popular and well-known among the Irish.
As a young man, Fionn visited the Boyne River with his druid tutor, which began at Trinity Well in County Kildare, passed by Tara Hill, and flowed into the Irish Sea near Drogheda. (Druids were members of the high-ranking class in ancient Celtic cultures, such as religious leaders, legal authorities, adjudicators, lorekeepers, medical professionals, and political advisors.) Fionn was studying under Finnagus, who was thought to be the wisest man in all of Ireland and believed — as legend told it — that the first man to catch the Salmon of Knowledge would obtain all the knowledge in the world. Finnagus did, indeed, catch the salmon, giving it to Fionn to cook it but not to taste it at all. When Fionn was turning it on the spit, he burned his finger and instinctively put his thumb into his mouth to soothe the burn and ease the pain, which in turn led him to be the first to taste the Salmon of Knowledge. Because of this, Finnagus encouraged Fionn to eat the rest of the salmon as he had already tasted it. This was the moment wherein Fionn became one of the most remarkable men in all of Irish mythology. As a result, every person born thereafter into this ancestral line has become a major figure in Irish history.
How does this tale relate to Howth if history shows us that Fionn himself had never visited the area? Howth has direct lineage with the family through Fionn’s grandson, Oscar, known to be a great warrior and one of the greatest poets in Irish mythology. He married Aideen, the daughter of the ruler of Howth, and went to fight in the Battle of Gabhrá. After slaying the first three kings, he was severely wounded and never made it back to Howth as he died shortly after his injuries. Once his wife heard of his death, she died too, of heartache and sorrow. Her body was laid to rest in Howth at what is now known as her grave… Aideen’s Grave. Oscar’s father, Oisín of the Fianna, and a few others helped to erect the portal tomb in her honour.
The tomb dates back to around 2500 B.C. and was comprised of two portal stones, a doorstone, and a roofstone, which still rests upon the upper edge of the portals. Although it has collapsed since, it is deemed a sacred site of Ireland, still as enchanting as ever. The rhododendrons around the grave bloom in late May and June, and at the clearing at the top of the hill, you will find a beautiful view.
Howth Harbour Lighthouse
To some, lighthouses may signify a farewell or a welcome, as they can be a symbol of adventurous travels and a symbol of returning home. Throughout Irish history, however, Howth Harbour Lighthouse has also served as a symbol for the fight for Irish independence.
One of the most recognizable landmarks in Howth, the lighthouse is located at the end of the pier on the northern end of Dublin Bay. The building itself makes for a rather impressive impact, as it once served two purposes: aside from serving as a traditional lighthouse, it also served as a defense fortress! If you think of its stout, circular wall, that wall enclosed a gun position. The lighthouse was built in the post-Napoleonic era and at that time, not every visitor was welcome to this harbour. In fact, if you visit the lighthouse and look around the visible coastline, you will notice other defense fortresses scattered around too, known as the “Martello towers”. These towers, along with the Howth Harbour lighthouse, were all built to protect Howth’s inhabitants from potential threats and invading forces.
Since the 17th century, only a very small quay was here. Used by local fishermen, a quay is a platform that lies alongside, or projects into, water. It was used as a port to unload supplies such as coal for the lighthouse on Howth Head, which was later replaced by the Baily Lighthouse. Around 1800, locals decided that Howth would be a better port than the Pigeonhouse Packet Station which was situated halfway between Ringsend and the Poolbeg Lighthouse, and thus a new harbour was built here.
Construction began on the new harbour in 1807 as the economy was booming, but when sand and mud proceeded to fill the harbour, this led to a very costly issue. Maintaining a sufficient depth at this manmade harbour proved quite difficult to do, and never ending. It was becoming too expensive to keep up with, but construction went ahead anyway and it was finally completed with a fixed red light and twelve oil lamps on 1 July, 1818. It wasn’t until after World War II that electricity was considered as a means of lighting for the lighthouse… and in early 1955, the old oil lighting was replaced by a 250-Watt lamp on battery power that was constantly recharged by mains electricity. This lighting lasted until 1982, when the harbour was modernized and the role of the lighthouse in serving as a warning to approaching ships was replaced by that of a new, smaller tower on the East Pier extension. Today, Howth Harbour Lighthouse still serves — as it did then — as both a day marker and an aid to navigation in good conditions.
It also serves as an important location that aided in Ireland’s fight for independence, as it was the setting for one unforgettable event during that period. During World War I, the English-born Irish author Erskine Childers (father of the fourth President of Ireland, Erskine Hamilton Childers) arrived here on his private yacht Asgard, smuggling in illegal supplies that helped the Irish volunteers. He was, in fact, a large supporter of Irish Republicanism and, gun-running, he managed to successfully bring in a cache of arms. Sadly, Childers was executed by the authorities of the emerging Irish Free State for having possession of an illegal weapon during the Irish Civil War… and ironically, the gun that cost him his life was but a mere pistol that was presented to him as a token of thanks for his gun-running activities!
Howth and its village have played important roles throughout Ireland’s history, and many famous historical figures have passed through over time. Even King George IV of England could not resist a visit to Howth! In fact, he visited Ireland in 1821 on his 59th birthday and his primary visit was to Howth. It was reported that he staggered off his ship in a highly inebriated state… and left footprint marks on the West Pier where he stepped ashore for the first time. A local stonemason, Robert Campbell, took advantage of this and decided to make the King’s footprints permanent by cutting them into the stone. You can see them today along the West Pier! The King stayed in Ireland for a few weeks and then exited the country from Dun Laoghaire Harbour. Dun Laoghaire actually renamed itself Kingstown after his visit, but in 1922 renamed itself Dun Laoghaire. Not all visitors to Howth left positive impressions, though… most likely one of the most unwelcome arrivals to Howth came here in 1347, and that was a ship full of Chinese merchants. This was believed to be when the Black Death arrived in Ireland. The first cases of the plague appeared in Howth, and while medieval death records are difficult to come by, it is believed that towns lost approximately 40–50% of their inhabitants as a result. In Dublin alone, over 14,000 deaths were brought about due to the Black Death.
Howth Market
While the market is not exactly a part of Howth’s history, in the past two decades it has become such a core part of Howth that there’s no way it could go without mention. Now a permanent fixture in this picturesque fishing village, it stands along the seafront with a façade of four permanent retail units at the markets’ entrance. These units — which are open daily — sell sweets, homemade gelato, deli produce and coffee! Howth is frequently visited amongst both local and tourists not only for their fresh seafood but for its lovely cliff walk, and this market is in the perfect location if you need a quick stop-off for coffee, tea, or a snack before embarking on your walk to some of the most incredible views in Dublin.
In June 2013, the market was revamped and ever since, great success has followed. It has become a meeting place for locals and attracts visitors from all over Ireland and the world.
Baily Lighthouse
One of Howth’s most photographed sights, Baily Lighthouse is located in a stunning location on the southeastern part of Howth Head on Dublin Bay. It is over 200 years old as it was built in 1814, however the first lighthouse where the Baily Lighthouse stands today was built around 1667 by Sir Robert Reading, the first and last Baronet Reading. It was actually one of six lighthouses that Reading received letters patent to build from Charles II in 1665. Parts of the original buildings remain, which at the time consisted of a small cottage and a square tower which supported a coal-fired beacon. In 1790, the coal beacon was replaced with six Argand oil lamps and from then on was maintained by the Revenue Commissioners.
In 1810, operations were taken over by the Corporation for Preserving and Improving the Port of Dublin. Due to issues regarding the lighthouse — for example, the light was often obscured by fog due to its location high on the headland — it was recommended that it be moved south on the headland to Little Baily, or Dubgriffen. A new tower and a new house for the keeper were designed and the project was completed on 17 March 1814. This doesn’t mean that there still were not issues, though… the area has been the scene of multiple shipwrecks since the location change!
On 3 August 1846, the City of Dublin Steam Packet Company’s paddle steamer Prince ran into the cliffs during a snowstorm about 2 1/2 km north of Baily due to heavy fog conditions. Due to this incident, fog bells were suggested to be installed at the lighthouse, however this safety addition was delayed due to the costs of other ongoing construction projects. That is, until another shipwreck occurred.
On the night of 14 February 1853, the PS Queen Victoria left Liverpool with cargo and approximately 100 passengers. As it was approaching the Irish coast with intentions to dock at Howth, a snowstorm hit and struck Howth Head at around 2:00am the next morning. In an attempt to be able to navigate into the harbour, the Captain backed the ship away from Howth Head, however the damage done was more extensive than he thought and the ship quickly filled with water. It began to drift, with the crew having no control over its steerage, and was struck below the Baily Lighthouse, sinking within 15 minutes of its second hit, about 100 yards south of the lighthouse. While one lifeboat made it to shore with 17 passengers, about 83 others — both passengers and crew members — perished. By far the most notable tragedy involving shipwrecks in this area, an inquiry was launched by the Board of Trade (a British government body that deals with commerce and industry) and the fog bell was finally installed in April 1853.
Baily Lighthouse was the last lighthouse in Ireland to be automated. When the current structure was built in 1814, it was done so in order to replace the old structure which was then considered obsolete and poorly positioned on the Howth coast. It stands 41 metres high and is easily recognizable by its white plaster and red ring. Aside from the lighthouse itself, there is also one large house for the main keeper and two separate houses for the assistant keepers. These three houses were added on in 1892, so the keepers each had somewhere to rest before taking turns on the job. Since 1996, the lighthouse has been fully automated, with the fixed white catoptric light provided by a set of 24 Argand lamps and reflectors. The last lightkeeper left the lighthouse in March 1997… however there is still an attendant that lives on-site in the main residence, in case of technical problems! While you cannot drive to the lighthouse, you can get close enough to it in good weather if you’re willing to walk along the cliffs.
Howth Abbey
The beginning of Christianity in Howth began here! The very first church built in Howth was here on the site of Howth Abbey, in Howth village, founded by Sitric the King of Dublin around 1042. Undoubtedly, the King selected this location for the church due to its breathtaking views of Howth Bay. Approximately 200 years later around 1235, the old church was replaced by an abbey and amalgated, or united, with the monastery on Ireland’s Eye and a new church was built. The new church was founded by Luke, the Archbishop of Dublin, on land that was granted to him by Sir Almeric St. Lawrence.
The abbey was served by a group of at least three priests, and the church had two aisles, each of which we know had a gabled roof. When the building was modified again in the late 15th or early 16th century, the gables were combined into a single, taller gable. A bellcote was also built (the small framework that surrounds one or more Sanctus bells in church architecture) and a new porch and south-facing door were added. An east-facing window was later added and the St. Lawrence’s of nearby Howth Castle also modified the church on its east end to serve as a private chapel, where you will now find a finely carved tomb with a double effigy for the thirteenth Baron of Howth and his wife. There was a private house to the south-east of the church that served as the priests’ house as well.
Up until around 1630, there were parishioners worshipping in the abbey. After that time, worship was mainly conducted in Lord Howth’s private chapel located to the right of the main roadway towards Howth Castle. While there are few remains of either of these churches, most of the present abbey still dates back to the late 14th-century or early 15th-century!
St. Mary’s Church
The first church in St. Mary’s Parish was built in Howth Abbey, however the present-day church, St. Mary’s Church, is situated on the grounds of Howth Castle at a pretty elevated site next to the entrance. The parish covers quite a wide area around the Dublin Bay. Within the Parish boundary there is also a Methodist congregation in Sutton, a Presbyterian congregation in Howth, and four Roman Catholic congregations (in Howth, Sutton, Baldoyle and Bayside).
The church is very attractive with 13th-century style architecture and detail. Atop the tower that contains stairs leading to the organ gallery sits quite an unusual spire with a very handsome wrought-iron gilt finial at the top. The lower part of the church is quite old and the inside boasts some of the most impressive church architecture and examples of stained-glass windows in Dublin. In fact, the windows located behind the reredos (the structure behind the main table on the altar) are reckoned to be one of the finest windows throughout the Diocese of Dublin. The main window depicts ‘Christ the Healer of mankind’ and shows Christ occupying the eye of the window. From the base of a central light grows a rose tree, and on either side are groups of saints who — in their lives — have extended Christ’s healing power. On the left are the three great Irish saints — St. Patrick, St. Brigid and St. Columba — and kneeling beneath them is St. Nessan holding the Garland of Howth. On the right side are some of the saints whose names are connected with the St. Lawrence family — St. Lawrence, St. Nicholas and St. Christopher.
Below the figure of Christ there is a very local feature… a picture of Howth Abbey, and behind the abbey, the West Pier of Howth Harbour may be seen. Lastly, the coats of arms in the bottom left and bottom right-hand corner bear the motto “Qui panse”, which in Norman French means ‘which heals’. Sir Amoricus Tristam, an ancestor of the Earl of Howth, received his title after he fought in the battle of Evora which happened on the very ground where the church now stands. Being wounded in battle, and seeing a dog-rose bush nearby, he requested that the petals be put into his wounds, which he believed would heal him… hence the family motto, ‘Qui panse’.
The Bloody Stream
To most, The Bloody Stream is simply one of Howth’s very popular spots to dine. Unbeknownst to many (unless, perhaps, you’re a local) is what influenced this restaurant to choose its name. The Bloody Stream was built over an actual stream, which at one point was actually bloody!
During the late 12th century, Gaelic Ireland was made up of several kingdoms. Prior to the Norman invasion of 1169, Gaelic Ireland comprised the entire island. After the invasion, it became a “patchwork” of territories ruled by a hierarchy of kings or chiefs who were elected through tanistry. Warfare was quite common between the territories, society was made up of clans and — like the rest of Europe — was structured hierarchically according to class. It remained that way up until the Anglo-Norman invasion of Ireland, when Anglo-Normans began slowly conquering and taking over large areas of land from the Irish, which the kingdom of England then claimed sovereignty over. The Norman invasion was a turning point in Ireland’s history, marking the beginning of more than 800 years of direct English — later, British — involvement in Ireland.
However, back to the Bloody Stream… in August 1777, during the second Norman invasion, a heavy battle took place in the very spot where The Bloody Stream is located. The Anglo-Norman invasion of Ireland took place between the forces of Sir Almeric Tristram (allegedly a descendent of one of the knights of King Arthur’s Round Table, whom took over command from Sir John de Courcy on the expedition’s arrival at Howth) and the Danes, who were occupying Evora Bridge at that time. As you could probably assume by this point, the fighting produced blood… some of which found its way into this littles stream, which has been known as the “Bloody Stream” ever since!
