It had been a busy couple of days in Dublin, where I’d gone to speak at a conference. Of course I tacked on some time to re-explore one of my favorite cities, visiting churches, museums, cool parts of town and losing myself in the rich, storied urban setting. Then, my friend Anne, a local, called me with a plan.
“We’re going on an adventure,” she said. “A Dublin adventure. I’ll pick you up in a half hour. And oh, wear your hiking shoes.”
Hiking? In Dublin? I must have heard her wrong. Still, the last time I’d been in the city she’d brought me to one of the most amazing cemeteries I’d ever visited, so I trusted her.
After Anne drove us through Dublin proper, past the water and in a northeast arc about 10 miles or so, we pulled into a quaint harbor hamlet and parked our car. A jetty jutted out to the sea just in front of us. Shops and restaurants — mostly fish joints — lined the quiet road. And behind them, hills soared up, green and beautiful.
This is Howth, a fishing town on the peninsula that forms the northern boundary of Dublin Bay. It has the look and feel of Irish seacoast countryside. Our day there, from an amazing hike to hanging out on that jetty to local fare and many surprises (like an impromptu ocean diving show), was pure magic. Any visitor to Dublin needs to plan a Howth day — and if you don’t have an Anne in your life to chauffeur you, no worries: The direct trains from Dublin and back are a snap.
We started our day with a walk out along that long, wide jetty. The views — both out toward islands and back toward land — were breathtaking. There was a steady breeze, but on this warmer February day, light jackets sufficed. The jetty was busy — moms with carriages, families with laughing kids, couples holding hands, all exchanging friendly nods and hellos.
That bonhomie might be rooted in history. Legend has it that back in the late 1500s, a pirate queen named Grace O’Malley (Grainne Ni Mhaille) made a visit to the town and knocked on the door of Howth Castle (today Ireland’s oldest standing and still inhabited building). Turned away, she reacted as a true pirate would: by abducting the earl’s grandson and heir, Christopher St. Lawrence. Her ransom that won his release: Howth and its castle must always be welcoming to guests. To this day, that holds true.
While I could have played on the jetty all day, we had a hike to take. Howth’s Cliff Path Loop is a six kilometer stroll. Doable for anyone who can take a decent extended walk, it meanders past amazing homes, historic sites and brings you up until it seems you can see all of Ireland: lighthouses, islands, green fields, castles and more.
The Cliff Path Loop is popular. You certainly won’t be alone. But even on this busy Sunday, it spread out enough to offer a feeling of tranquility as you climb upward. We passed the home the poet Yates lived in for a period. He’s not the only famous name to settle there. Without the pomp and flash, Howth proper is like a Hollywood of Ireland. U2 drummer Larry Mullen Jr., Lynn Redgrave, the late Dolores O’Riordan of the Cranberries, actress Saoirse Ronan and many others have called it home.
But the true star here is the setting. As we hiked, gasping at the perfect seaside homes, each turn gave us another incredible view of cliffs and crashing waves. Ahead of us, we noticed a group pointing out to the sea and, again and again, cheering. The waves were dramatic that day, and I assumed when we reached them we’d see some pounding surf. We did, but that’s not what the excitement was about. Just beyond the shore, a local man was climbing a rocky cliff and diving over and over from a huge diving board. He flipped and jumped into that surf, wowing us every time.
We made our way to the top and then wound back down, passing cool restaurants with outdoor dining, Howth Castle and, randomly, a museum on radios.
We were hungry now. That’s no challenge in Howth. Anne brought me to her favorite local seafood spot, The Waterside Pub, where I ordered a pint (when in Howth!) and a hearty lamb pie. Around us, the local crowd buzzed. The place was packed and pints were pouring, and it was only noon on a Sunday.
“Is it a special day today?” I asked Anne. “Oh, Moira,” she replied with her beautiful brogue, “It’s always a special day in Howth.”
For more information, go to visitdublin.com/hooked-on-howth-dublin.
