Exploring Ireland’s west coast: from Dingle to Donegal, Achill Island and the Cliffs of Moher

DINGLE, Ireland – The west coast of Ireland is the stuff of travel dreams – filled with soaring cliffs, bright green pastures and grazing sheep, glorious beaches, charming towns and ancient ruins. It’s worthy of a week all its own, if you have the time.

I suspected when I planned this itinerary that I was doing it too fast – covering too many kilometers in just four days, not leaving enough time to stop and smell the rhododendrons (which were in full bloom in County Mayo in late May, by the way).

Ireland’s tourism department created the Wild Atlantic Way in 2014, a driving route along the west coast that covers some 1,500 miles through nine counties. Well-placed signage along the route directs drivers to and from sights along the scenic path.

We didn’t cover it all, skipping some sections entirely and occasionally opting for faster highways to get us to our destinations quicker.

But we covered much of it, starting in Dingle, traveling north to the Cliffs of Moher, then driving through Galway to Clifden, biking out to Achill Island and ending our tour in Donegal. I wished I had an extra day in every location.

Ah well. It’s always better to want more than to stay too long.

And who knows -- maybe I’ll be back. The new Aer Lingus flight, nonstop between Cleveland and Dublin, makes frequent trips to Ireland pretty tempting.

Exploring Ireland's west coast — Along Slea Head Drive on Ireland's Dingle Peninsula.

Dingle Peninsula

The Dingle Peninsula is one of several scenic peninsulas along Ireland’s southwest coast. The Iveragh Peninsula, with its well-known Ring of Kerry scenic drive, is directly south and more popular. But I chose Dingle because it’s smaller, more manageable, and typically less crowded.

Dingle’s primary attraction is Slea Head Drive, a 24-mile loop route at the far west end of the peninsula that hugs the coastline most of the way. It’s dotted with ancient ruins and more contemporary sites, with dramatic cliffs, lush farmland and beautiful beaches.

The entire route was spectacular, striking and serene all at once. And though just 24 miles, it took us more than six hours to complete, as we stopped nearly a dozen times to check out interesting sites along the way.

Most of the route was uncrowded, although I imagine that will change as the summer tourist season heats up. The route is two-way, except for tour buses, which must travel clockwise. Most of the traffic flows that way too – in part, no doubt, to avoid getting trapped by one of those mega buses we saw maneuvering some very tight hairpin turns. The route is also popular with bicyclists, although it looked like too much of a workout for me, with lots of hills.

Among the stops:

* The Blasket Centre, on the mainland directly across from Great Blasket Island, the one-time home of as many as 175 residents. In 1953, the island was evacuated – too many people had voluntarily relocated, leaving the existing population too isolated and vulnerable. The island’s rich Irish-speaking culture is chronicled and celebrated at this small museum, built in 1994. Don’t miss it. Note: Separately, tours to the island are available from Dingle.

* Dunbeg Fort, a defensive structure dating back some 2,000 years or more. It’s been substantially eroded and rebuilt over the years, and it’s little wonder why – this fort is precariously perched on the cliffs, hundreds of feet above the crashing Atlantic.

* Gallarus Oratory, an elegantly constructed dry stone building – that is, built without mortar — which dates back as many as 1,300 years. The small structure, about 16 feet by 10 feet, was likely used as a small chapel.

* Irish Famine Cottages, a collection of small, spare structures built in the 19th century, and abandoned during the Great Famine, which hit this area of Ireland particularly hard.

And don’t miss a stop at Dunmore Head and Coumeenoole Beach – a gorgeous stretch of sand and the only place in Ireland I dared take my shoes off and walk barefoot in the water. Brrr!

The town of Dingle is the starting and ending point for the drive and a lovely place to spend a couple of nights. Tucked alongside a protective harbor, the charming town is home to dozens of restaurants and shops. It’s also a thriving fishing port, with a downtown marina lined with commercial boats.

I had my best meal in all of Ireland here at Out of the Blue, which offers a seafood-only menu written on a chalkboard, dictated by what the boats bring in. I also heard some of the best Irish music of my trip in Dingle, at O’Sullivan’s Courthouse Pub and Neligan’s.

And don’t miss Murphy’s Ice Cream, with two locations in town, featuring a tasty gin-flavored ice cream, and chocolate whiskey, among many others.

Where we stayed: We spent two nights at the quiet and comfortable O’Neill’s Bed and Breakfast, well-located on a side street in town, operated by Stephen O’Neill, who took over the business from his parents several years ago. At 110 euros per night, it was the most economical accommodation of my 9-night trip to Ireland and included a full Irish breakfast.

Note: There are two routes into Dingle, one along the southern coast of the peninsula and another along the northern coast. The northern route, along R560, cuts through the mountains via Conor Pass, a narrow, twisting mountain road that, after reaching its peak at about 1,500 feet, descends dramatically into Dingle. The roadway, which reduces to one lane in sections, is not for the faint of heart – but it is spectacular. Don’t miss it.

A final thought on Dingle: The afternoon we arrived, a large cruise ship was docked off the coast of Dingle – an increasingly common occurrence, according to O’Neill, who said there are four more ships scheduled to visit town this summer. There is no major pier here, so passengers are shuttled via tender to the mainland, where they descend on the small downtown for a few hours of shopping and sightseeing.

It will be interesting to see whether and how the cruise industry alters the small-town charm of Dingle and other Irish coastal communities. On the one hand, the economic impact of the visitors is certainly welcome, but the long-term effect the ships could have on the town may not be.

Cliffs of Moher

From Dingle, we drove north to the Cliffs of Moher, a scenic drive that included a 20-minute ferry across the Shannon estuary, connecting Tarbert and Killimer (23 euros; shannonferries.com). The Cliffs were another hour-drive north.

Towering up to 700 feet above the ocean, the Cliffs stretch for nearly 9 miles along the west coast of Ireland south of Galway. It’s one of the country’s top sites for a reason, with dramatic views in every direction.

Access to what’s called the Cliffs of Moher Experience is via a central entryway that includes a visitors center built into the ground. Admission, including parking, is 10 euros per person during midday, cheaper in the morning or later afternoon.

You can also hike to the cliffs from the nearby towns of Doolin and Liscannor and avoid paying admission, although you won’t be able to access the visitors center.

The central cliffs area can get quite crowded, so come early or late if you can. My husband and I arrived at about 1 p.m., with the midday sun straight overhead, which tended to wash out our photographs.

Some of the viewing areas closest to the visitors center got clogged with people during our stay, but it was easy enough to escape the crowds by walking a bit farther along the coast.

We spent about two hours here, most of it walking along the coastal trail. And I would have stayed longer, but our next destination was calling.

A castle in Clifden

After stopping in Doolin for ice cream, we continued north toward Galway, motoring through an area known as the Burren (literally “rocky place”), a region so completely unexpected amid the green of Ireland. The area, approximately 200 square miles, features a stark landscape of rocky mountains carved from limestone. It was like driving on the moon.

The only unpleasant part of the trip came as we maneuvered through Galway, population 80,000, where we got caught in traffic and delayed by road construction. If I had to do it over again, I would have spent the night here.

Our destination was another 90 minutes northwest, in Clifden. We arrived at our hotel – the Abbeyglen Castle Hotel – just in time to hear owner Ronan Hughes recount the history of the building and the region and offer a complimentary champagne toast to some of the people who made it possible. (Read more about our castle stay here: Castle overnight in Ireland: What’s in a name?)

Clifden is in the heart of Ireland’s Connemara region, another starkly beautiful area of Ireland to explore, with jagged mountains, serene inland lakes and a dramatic coastline to explore.

We rose early to drive the Sky Road, a short, 10-mile loop that offers panoramic views of the ocean, islands and surrounding countryside. Then we took a short walk to check out the ruins of Clifden Castle, built by the same man, John D’Arcy, who founded the town and built Abbeyglen.

And here we encountered one more example of that famous Irish hospitality: The gentleman who owns the land that includes Clifden Castle came outside to tell us the property was private and to please not go inside the structure, because it wasn’t safe. And then he invited us along for an exterior tour of the space.

If I had another day here, I would have toured scenic Kylemore Abbey (built in 1868), hiked Connemara National Park and maybe taken a boat ride on Killany Harbour, Ireland’s only fjord. But time was tight, so we continued our drive north to County Mayo.

Biking through County Mayo

For several decades at the turn of the 19th century, a railroad operated from Westport to Achill Island. In 2010, the rail line was turned into a level, paved path, creating what has to be one of the world’s most spectacular bikeways, the Great Western Greenway, which traverses 27 miles through scenic County Mayo.

We started our trip from Newport, skipping the first 7 miles of the greenway, from Westport to Newport, which I had read was the least scenic part of the route, as it parallels the roadway. The route from Newport was spectacular from start to finish – through farmland and forest, past pastures and lakes, with the Atlantic coast within eyesight through much of it.

We pedaled past horses and cows and sheep – and a handful of humans, too. I imagine it will get much busier as the summer progresses. We stopped for lunch in the tiny town of Mulranny, overlooking Clew Bay, then summoned the energy to finish the final 8 miles to Achill.

My only regret was that we didn’t opt for electric bikes because although this was mostly flat, 20 miles is a lot (for me), and I didn’t need to work that hard.

We did opt for the shuttle ride back, however.

The route ends at the bridge to Achill Island – which, at 57 square miles, is Ireland’s largest island, with cliffs and mountains and some of the country’s most spectacular beaches. It’s a sister city to Cleveland, which is why the group of Northeast Ohio government and business leaders who traveled to Ireland last month spent a night here.

I, however, continued my route north, to Donegal.

But first, I asked our shuttle driver, the owner of Greenway Bicycle Hire in Newport, if he wouldn’t mind driving us the few miles west to see the statue of Johnny Kilbane, the Achill native who found fame in Cleveland as a boxer in the early 1900s.

Though he had never heard of Kilbane, or the statue, he graciously agreed. After I thanked him, I told him I might not be the last Clevelander who makes such a request.

Last stop: Donegal

We ended our tour in the town of Donegal, in Ireland’s northernmost county (also Donegal). Unfortunately, we were here mostly to sleep, before heading to our next stop. Next time, for sure, I’ll allot at least a day or two to explore the rugged coastline in Ireland’s most remote region.

For now, though, our tour came to an end at the Reel Inn, a venue well-regarded for its traditional Irish music offerings.

The place was standing-room only when we entered, filled with the sounds of banjo and button accordion. I eventually secured a couple of seats at a table by the door, where we listened for hours to the lively soundtrack of Ireland’s wild Atlantic coast before returning to our hotel.

Then, the next morning, we were off – to Northern Ireland, to the Antrim Coast and Giant’s Causeway, yet another spectacular coastal region on an island that has so many of them.

En route from Dublin to Dingle: Rock of Cashel and Kilkenny Castle

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(Coming next month: Two days in Northern Ireland: Giant’s Causeway, Belfast and the Titanic museum.)