Wild beauty: 10 ways to experience the wonder of Achill Island

With its recent appearance on the big screen, interest in Achill Island seems to have grown tenfold. Tom Breathnach lists his top 10 things to do there
Wild beauty: 10 ways to experience the wonder of Achill Island

Keem Beach, on Achill Island, Co Mayo. Pic: Christian McLeod

Achill has long been a favourite discovery point along the Wild Atlantic Way. But with Oscars weekend upon us and the Banshees of Inisherin movie in the spotlight, its dramatic filming location is tipped to get a further tourist surge.

So where can you go on both the tourist trail, and beyond it? Here is my take on the 10 best things to experience on Ireland’s largest island.

And the nominations are...

1. Keem Beach

It’s Achill’s blockbuster attraction and a visit to Keem is usually the number one (and all too often only) reason to make a trip to the island.

The winding, cliff-kissing road which rises and descends down to the beach is a world-class driving thrill while the strand itself, with its white sands horseshoed by sheer hillsides is truly one of the most dramatic you’ll find anywhere. 

As for that little tighín right on the beach? That’s where Brendan Gleeson’s character, Colm Doherty, lived in the movie. 

Keem beach gets thronged in the summer (making driving and parking here all the more hair-raising) so try to arrive early in the morning or at sunset for a little more solitude.

2. Atlantic Drive

Without doubt one of the most spectacular stretches of roadway in Ireland, this winding route along Achill’s southeastern seaboard is so dramatic, rumour has it provided the original inspiration for the genius that is Wild Atlantic Way.

And with good reason, the 30km route following the L1405 kisses a spectacular coastline of cliffs, clashing waves (an invigorating sea spray with those windows down).

The location of John Joe’s pub from the Banshees of Inisherin is at Cloughmore; the thatched pub was actually erected (and since dismantled) for the movie but you can still toast the spectacular scenery.

3. Croaghaun sea cliffs

The record of Ireland’s highest cliffs doesn’t sit with Moher or ever Sliabh League but, in fact, at Croaghaun, at the furthest fringes of Achill Island.

At a pretty dizzying 688m above the crashing Atlantic, Croaghaun sea cliffs are in fact Europe’s third-highest cliffs and are found just above Keem Beach.

You’ll need to take a testing ascent to get there and while the route is spectacular it’s not for beginners and best suits for well-seasoned hikers in fine weather.

For a less-lofty experience, the White Cliffs of Ashmeam located along Atlantic Drive also make for a spectacular sight.

4. Achill International Film Festival

Achill may be no stranger to the silver screen but did you know that it now also hosts its own film festival, too? The second incarnation of this international film festival, supported by RTÉ, takes place from May 11-13 this year and bills to showcase the best of home and international cinema in one of the most spectacular locations in the world.

Expect great releases, lively film panels and great, cinematic-centred craic all round.

5. Minaun Heights

Most visitors to Achill boot on straight to Keem Beach but almost in the centre of the island sits one of its most spectacular and often-overlooked vantage points.

The mountain of Minaun offers 360-degree views over the island, Clew Bay, the mainland and beyond but the novelty of this peak is you can pretty much drive all the way to the summit.

From there, park alongside the transmitter masts and hike the last few minutes to the Marian grotto for peak views.

On a fine summer’s evening, this would make for epic sunset territory — just bring some layers given its lofty, exposed elevation, and boots in boggy weather.

Achill Island Fudge: a must for any island visitor
Achill Island Fudge: a must for any island visitor

6. Famine Village

Deserted dwellings may be evident across Ireland — and indeed elsewhere on Achill — but the Famine Village in Slievemore is arguably the starkest reminder you could encounter an Gorta Mór’s impact on rural Ireland. 

Don’t expect just a couple of cottage ruins here, but rather a meandering linear townland of up to 100 houses.

Juxtaposed with a spectacular backdrop where mountain sheep grazing a scape of hills and blanket bog, the site makes for an essential visit.

7. Achill Island Aquarium

If you’re looking for a great family-friendly, all-weather attraction on the island, pay a visit to the Achill Island Aquarium and Visitor Centre. 

Not only does it feature an aquarium showcasing native marine life but there’s also a museum with exhibits on the island’s history as well as a boley house, a reconstruction of a deserted village home.

8. Colony Tour

For history lovers, take a guided tour of the Achill Colony, a 19th-century Protestant Achill mission set up on the island. Tour guide is Achill Islander, writer, and Bafta winner, Kevin Toulis, who offers a fascinating and colourful insight into this fateful period of Irish history.

9. Achill Kitchen

A roadtrip is only ever as good as its food stops so to stock up on provisions or fuel up on coffee, pay a visit to the charming and recently opened Achill Island Kitchen shop in Dooagh.

The store-cafe stocks excellent artisanal Irish food (don’t forget the Achill Island fudge) while the cafe is a great option for salads and tasty toasties — think Ketterick’s Ham and Hegarty’s Cheddar on O’Donoghue’s bloomer bread.

Picture-perfect views at Watersedge cottage
Picture-perfect views at Watersedge cottage

10. Check into a dream cottage

If you’re looking for a dreamy, traditional base for Achill, Watersedge Cottage in Cloughmore makes an idyllic spot. 

Achill Island native Ciaran Needham and his partner Ellen Daly from Cork swapped life in Sydney for Achill, buying and restoring this postcard house (while living in the cottage next door). 

The one-bedroom cottage features a modern kitchen and cosy lounge with wood-burning stove as well as a charming bedroom with a window framing movie-worthy Mayo views. 

For added star power, Ciaran’s father Michael John Needham starred as an extra in the Banshees of Inisherin. Consider it the perfect couple’s break or an idyllic haven for a solo escape.

  • Excellent value at €100 per night; Airbnb.com

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